Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

By addebook • Jul 19th, 2008 • Category: Physics

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
By Leo H. Holthuijsen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Number Of Pages: 404
Publication Date: 2007-02-05
ISBN-10 / ASIN: 0521860288
ISBN-13 / EAN: 9780521860284
Binding: Hardcover

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. The book brings graduate students, researchers and engineers up-to-date with the science and technology involved, assuming only a basic understanding of physics, mathematics and statistics. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterize waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalized observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

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